A Cake With Nothing to Hide

In 2013, I baked 400 dried-apple hand pies, with a touch of cream and black pepper, per my nearly 200-year-old Appalachian family recipe, and boxed them individually with a hearty slice of coconut cake. This was for the now-infamous cake-vs.-pie debate at the Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium in Oxford, Miss. I was not part of…

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